Thursday, April 23, 2015

Upcoming Event Links

Upcoming Event Links 


Between work schedules, family commitments and day to day life it can be difficult finding the time to plan out events; whether for yourself, the kids or the entire family including our four legged kids.

We will be posting links to upcoming family and pet events, shows, expos and other worth while activities in and around our regional area.  Furthermore, links will be provided to event search engines that can be used for your specific area.

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http://uscasiegershow.info/ - May 2015 in Illinois


http://www.houstonpetexpo.com/- Houston Pet Expo coming June 2015! 


http://www.lonestarstateclassic.com/ - Dallas, Texas Dog show July 2015


https://www.facebook.com/2014NASS 2015 North American WUSV Sieger Show presented by the WDA in Fairfax County, Va on October 2-4, 2015



http://texasdogclubukc.com/up-coming-shows/ - TEXAS DOG CLUB ------is UKC club that host conformation shows throughout Texas

http://www.bringfido.com/event/state/texas/ - Mark your calendars! There are 18 upcoming events in Texas.


http://www.onofrio.com/execpgm/fndindex - Various dog shows around the country  

 
http://www.germanshepherddog.com/events-new/ - United Schutzhund Clubs of America events page 





ENJOY!!!

















Wednesday, April 15, 2015

HOW TO STACK A GSD

HOW TO STACK A GSD


First are some following questions that many have asked and then we will go over how to stack your own dog.
What Does the term " Stack " Mean ?
A Stack is the NATURAL stance of the GSD.  It is the stance that the Gsd must be put into in the show ring.  You may see your dog stack narually a lot as this is normal for them.  Stacking is just the term used to describe the dogs stance.
Do all dogs stack ?
Yes all dogs do stack but the German Shepherd is the ONLY dog that stack's in this way.  Most other breeds have both rear legs positioned in the same way but with the Shepherd we put both rear legs in different positions.
How important is a correct stack ?
It is very important to position the dog correctly as it will show the viewer the dogs structure.  It can portray many different things such as ...  
  •  Length to Height ratio
  • Depth of chest
  • Turn of stifle
  • Croup and back angulation
  • length of neck and many other things
Below is a picture of a Fairly well stacked dog.
This dog was stacked by a 7 year old girl who had NEVER stacked a dog before.  ANYONE CAN DO IT.

 
Notice how much you can tell about this dog's structure.  You can see her angulation as well as many of the other things that we stated.  Can you see why it is important to see a dog in this natural stance?  You can tell a lot from this and see just how close the dog compares to standard.
Below are some detailed instructions of the EASIEST way to stack your GSD.   Although it is nice to train a dog to walk right into a stack on command this is not always the easiest thing to do.  Sometimes this way will prove to be quicker and the is a good way for the average person to learn as well as for the beginner show dog.  
We will be posting pictures with the detailed instructions of how to stack your dog as well.  We will post them as soon as possible.
STEPS TO STACKING THE GSD

Step 1 - POSITIONING THE DOGS FRONT
    First you will place the dog directly in front of you.  You will GENTLY place your open hand under the chest.  Place hand DIRECTLY behind the front legs firmly but gently.  With your other hand hold under the neck at the collar or wherever it gives you the easiest way to support your dog.   GENTLY lift dog's front half off the ground.  You only have to lift them off the ground a few inches.  This will make the dog's front legs drop evenly onto the ground.  Gently lower dog to the ground and their front legs should be in the correct position.  MINOR corrections may be necessary see step 2.


Step 2 - FIXING MINOR FAULTS OF THE FRONT LEGS
  If correction to the front legs is needed follow this step.  If correction is not needed you may proceed to next step.   To correct minor positioning you may grasp the dogs forearm and lift of the ground.  Wherever you place the paw back onto the ground is where the dog should keep it.  We do this because you can almost use the dogs paw as a pointer and put it exactly where you want it.  We grasp the forearm because it is hard for the dog to reposition their feet when you have a hold of their forearm.  This is also the easiest way for a child to position the dog IF dog is too heavy for them to lift.  A child can easily position the front end in this manor by doing one leg at a time.  NOTE:  MAKE SURE DOG IS DIRECTLY OVER THEIR LEGS.  WE WANT STRAIGHT LEGS UNDER THE BODY AND A DOGS CHEST WELL OVER THEIR FRONT LEGS.


Step 3 - POSITIONING THE REAR LEG CLOSEST TO YOU
In this step you will take the REAR leg that is closest to you and grasp it by the hock.  Gently lift and slide it either forward or backwards.  Positioning this leg depends upon where the dog had it when you started this step.  You want this foot positioned DIRECTLY below the hip bone.  You can feel your dog's hip bone at the end of the back and beginning of the croup.  If you position this foot to far forward it will make the dog appear uncomfortable as well as making it look as if the dog stands on its hock rather than foot.  THIS IS NOT A NATURAL POSITON FOR THE DOG.  If foot is to far back you will not give the viewer a true picture of the dog's angulation.  In the GSD's stack we can get a good idea of that dog's movement.  This depicts the natural motion of the dogs gait and is the NATURAL stance of the dog.  POSITIONING IS VERY IMPORTANT.  A well structured dog can look bad with bad positioning.


Step 4 - POSITIONING REAR LEG FACING CAMERA
You want to grasp the rear leg at the hock.  GENTLY slide leg back till the hock is at a STRAIGHT 90% angle.  This leg is VERY important that it is in the correct position.  To far back and it will exaggerate the angulations of the dog as well as be uncomfortable.  To far forward and dog will not be able to hold its balance and dog will be uncomfortable.  This leg show's you the TRUE position of the dog.  It will depict where the foot is at the last moment that it is on the ground while in motion.  It will show the dog's TRUE structure IF positioning is correct.


Step 5 - FINAL REPOSTIONING
Check to make sure that dog is still in the stance that you have put him in.  If you have done it correctly the dog will not tend to move as this is comfortable as well as natural for them.  Of course with the beginner dog they do not know what you are doing or what you expect from them so it may take a few times to make them understand what you want.  Also the stubborn or young dog can prove a challenge.  Again there is the chance that if you are also a beginner the dog is not stacked correctly and is not comforatable and is moving because of that.  It is not always the dog's fault.  Once you are happy with the positioning place your hand under the back of the dog's jaw at the point where there neck meets the jaw.  You may even pull the collar up to right behind the ears as well as grasp the collar under the jaw and that will give you control of the dog.  Next you will pull gently forward to make them stand over their front legs correctly.  Also raise the head in the natural alert position.  It may help to have someone stand in front of them with a favorite toy.  This will get their attention and they will allow you to do almost anything.  


Step 6 - FINAL STEP

QUICK TAKE A PICTURE BEFORE THEY MOVE!!!
Repeat as needed.  Do not get frustrated as this will take some time for you as well as your dog to understand.  PERSEVERANCE IS THE KEY. 

Thank You to http://www.patchworkshepherds.com/  for the article  

Sunday, November 24, 2013

Exciting News!

We have had a very busy few months! We have been working with all four of our dogs to get them introduced to each other, and their new home. Apparently, they love it! We have 3 dogs that are currently pregnant. The first litter is due December 2nd. We are so excited to spend this Holiday season with all of the new members of our family.

We pride ourselves on not just breeding dogs, but loving each and every one of the beautiful creatures that come into our home. We also make sure that the puppies will be going to a home where that love will continue. The German Shepherds we breed come from a long line of Champion dogs, as seen in their pedigrees. Raising a champion dog takes not only patience, obedience and training, but also love and respect. We make sure that all of our puppies are brought into this world with that.

Make sure to check our website for information on the puppies! http://www.konkurrenzloskennel.com/

Also check out our Facebook page for more pictures as the puppies grow!
https://www.facebook.com/konkurrenzlos.kennel

-Woof!

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

How to keep your dogs (pets) safe during HURRICANE season - Pt. I

Hurricane Preparedness

Pt. I 


We are located in Houston, which has been known to be affected by a hurricane now and again. Many of our readers, friends, and puppy purchasers live in other areas that can experience a hurricane. Part of being a responsible pet owner - is having a safety plan that INCLUDES your pet. We have taken some tips from the Hurricane Pet Rescue Organization.



HURRICANE TIPS FOR KEEPING YOUR PETS SAFE!

1) If you need to evacuate, PLEASE TAKE YOUR ANIMALS WITH YOU! HAVE A PLAN, MEMORIZE IT AND STICK TO IT. DO A SIMULATED EMERGENCY DRILL WITH YOUR FAMILY AND PETS. PICK A LEADER, FOLLOW THE LEADER AND DO NOT ARGUE WITH THE LEADER. KNOW SEVERAL PLACES OF EXIT. DO NOT ENCLOSE YOURSELF AND YOUR PETS TO THE POINT THAT YOU CANNOT GET OUT.

2) In the event that you cannot take the animal where you are going, please make arrangements to board your animal in a safe and reputable boarding facility or vet office INLAND.

3) If you are going to a shelter with your animal please make sure you call your veterinarian beforehand so you can get a copy of your pets vet records and proof of vaccinations. Most shelters will NOT take your pet, if the pet doesn't have at least a rabies shot. Also, at shelters that accept pets, they are many other pets besides yours, so it is IMPERATIVE that your pet(s) is up to date on shots,
This way she// he will be protected from diseases.

Don't wait until the last minute to give your pets their vaccinations as vaccinations can take up to 2 weeks to take up to 2 weeks to be effective.

4) If you are packing for you, please park for your pets as well, you don't need to take the cat tree or the dog house, but please pack a few familiar things for your pet(s) that has the smell of his house. Especially if you go to a shelter. Taking a few toys to entertain the pet is a must, perhaps a familiar blanket will be good too. Rescue Remedy to relieve stress will be a good idea to have in hand.

You can pick up Rescue Remedy at any health food store, is a natural stress reliever with no side effects, it can be used as needed and it works great (DO NOT get the Rescue Remedy pills, those can be toxic)

Besides a carrier you are going to need a cage/crate so your pet can be more comfortable while at the shelter. Make sure the crate/cage is big enough where the pet can comfortably stand and litter box (for cats), food and water dishes can also fit in. It will be a good idea checking out crates and cages now and not to leave it for the last minute.

5) Getting your pets microchipped is highly advisable, but if the pet is not microchipped yet please put ID TAGS on your pets NOW. Although ID tags are not always the best as collars break and there go the ID tags. Even if your pet is microchipped having ID tags on your pets as well is always a good idea.

ID tags and microchips can prevent your animals from getting killed in case they ever get lost and end up in a shelter! Or in case of a Mother Nature Disaster if they get lost, finding their owner will be somewhat better.

If your pet is a cat please use a breakaway collar.

6) If your pet takes medications please make sure you have enough to get you through the storm and at least a 3 week supply for the aftermath.If you haven't yet, this will be a good time to ask your vet for extra medications, antibiotics are always good to have them handy in case your pet gets sick.
In case of a storm if you lose power there will be no refrigeration, so pills are always best.

7) Buy at least food and water supply for your pet to last you for at least 2 weeks. Bottled water is best as tap water may be contaminated after a storm (listen to authorities for warning of contaminated water).
Contaminated water causes disease in people as well as pets. If you cannot afford bottle water for your pets then you can purified the water by following these simple steps:
Hold water at a rolling boil for 1 minute to kill bacteria.
If you can't boil water, add 1/8 teaspoon (approximately 0.75 ml) of newly purchased, unscented liquid household bleach per gallon of water.
Stir the water well, and let it stand for 30 minutes before you use it. You can use water-purifying tablets instead of boiling water or using bleach.

After the storm, disinfect your pet’s toys that have come in contact with water. Use a solution of 1 cup of bleach in 5 gallons of water to disinfect the toys. Let toys air dry after cleaning.

Some toys, such as stuffed animals and cannot be disinfected; they should be discarded.

8) If you are riding out the storm at your home. Place all your animals in one room (if possible) and place carriers. collars & leashes in the same room so you will have them handy when you need them.
If things do get ugly, DO NOT PANIC, Stay as calm as you can be. If you panic your animals will panic too. Remember that pets can sense human emotions!

Please have rope and an ax (in case you need to break an opening to get to safety), a flashlight, a SMALL bag with medications, your id and your keys all in one place, so if you need to get out and lose power you will know where everything is.

Remember, Pets sense Mother Nature disasters days before any radar can pick them up, so they may be a bit stress already without anybody noticing.  Keeping calm is key!

9) If you have no choice but to leave your pets alone (NOT ADVISABLE).

DO NOT CHAIN YOUR PET TO ANYTHING.

DO NOT TRANQUILIZE YOUR PET, PETS NEED TO BE ALERT TO RELAY ON THEIR 
INSTINCTS.

DO NOT CONFINE YOU PETS TO A ROOM.

DO NOT CONFINE YOUR PETS TO A CRATE.

PLAN FOR YOUR PET

GIVE THEM EASY ACCESS TO HIGH PLACES, IN CASE OF FLOODING.

Leave plenty of dry food and water and put a dish of water under the dish of dry food so ants will not get in the food. Put as many litter boxes as you can all over your house, Wee Wee pads for dogs or newspaper. If you have an answering machine DO call your animals and let them hear your voice while you are away.

Do NOT leave lamps on, if you want to leave a light on for your pet, please leave a ceiling fixture on.
If things get bad, lamps can tip over, if the area is flooded your pets can be electrocuted, same scenario with fans DO NOT leave any fans on. Unplug all appliances, yes including your refrigerator, if you have a gas stove, please shut off the main line.

Do not leave wet food for you pets because it will spoil and your pet will get sick.

If you board up your house, please leave an exit for your pets, perhaps a screened cracked window chances are that your house has insurance, so if your roof blows away you are covered but your pets won't be.

If there is a flood and the water rises up to your roof (like it did with Katrina), having an open window or 2 it will give your pet a chance to break free.

10) Good luck and be safe with your 4 legged little ones.

Source information:
Celene Albano, HPR Rescue CEO

www.hurricanepetsrescue.org

www.hurricanepets.petfinder.com

E-mail: HPRESQ@aol.com

tel: 786-999-8239

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

German Pedigree

Have you ever seen a German Pedigree? Have you ever tried to read ANYTHING in German?! Well - it is not an easy task. Since our dogs come directly from Germany - they have Official FCI German Pedigrees. It took many hours with Google Translator and different "Champion title charts" and "German abbreviations" to figure out HOW to read a pedigree.

I wanted to assemble a "cheat" sheet for anyone else facing this task.All sources are given.  am not an expert, just offering some advice!

The pedigree should be 3 pages in length. Your dog's information will be listed on the first page, with 4 generations of family history on the next 2 pages.

The first column listed under the heading Eltern or Parents. First will be the Father or Vatter - sometimes listed as 1V. Then below that will be the Mother or Mutter - listed as 2M.

The second column, großeltern or Grandparents will feature the Vatters and Mutters parents.

On the last page will be the urgroßeltern or Great-Grandparents, and the ururgroßeltern or Great-Great Grandparents, respectively.

There will also be a list of abbreviations. Here is a list that more clearly identifies abbreviations found on a pedigree:

GSDGerman Shepherd Dog = Deutsche Schäferhunde (Ger.)
SVVerein für Deutsche Schäferhunde e. V. (Ger.) - Club for German Sepherd Dogs Inc - the main (original) GSD club and breed registry, based in Germany.
WUSVThe World Union of German Shepherd Dog Clubs
AWDFAmerican Working Dog Federation - an organization founded in 1989 to strengthen the working breeds in the United States. The breeds represented include German Shepherd Dogs, Malinois, Boxers, American Bulldogs, Dobermans, Rottweilers, Bouviers, Schnauzers, and American Staffordshire Terriers.
USA = USCAUnited Schutzhund Clubs of America. USA is dedicated to protecting & preserving the German Shepherd Dog's working heritage through Schutzhund training. www.germanshepherddog.com
GSDCA-WDAThe German Shepherd Dog Club of America -Working Dog Association, Inc. The WDA provides enthusiasts a framework for activities in the United States patterned after those available to the worldwide GSD community. www.gsdca-wda.org
DVGDeutscher Verband der Gebrauchshundsportvereine (Ger.) DVG is the oldest and largest Schutzhund training organization in the world. Begun in 1903, DVG was Germany's first police and service dog club and has now grown to nearly 30,000 members.
FCIFederation Cynologique Internationale (Fr.) - world canine organization
AKCAmerican Kennel Club. www.akc.org
CKCCanadian Kennel Club
HDHip Dysplasia
“a” 1HD normal - the best hip rating possible from the SV
“a” 2HD fast normal - near normal hips
“a” 3HD noch zugelassen - hips are still acceptable for breeding
"a"-AuslandHD certification was passed in another country rather than Germany.
OFAOrthopedic Foundation for Animals - an organization in the US that researches HD and other health problems and certifies hips and elbows for animals.
ZWZuchtwert (Ger.) An estimated Breed Value. Is used to aid breeders in making the selection of breeding partners for their dogs according to their hip status. A breed value of 100 is typical for the breed. Each breeder should strive to produce offspring with a Breed Value LESS than 100.
BSZSBundessieger-Zuchtschau (Ger.) World Championship - a yearly international championship of the German Shepherd Dog held in Germany (Sieger Show).
BSPBundessiegerprufung (Ger.) German National Working German Shepherd Dog Championship - a yearly Schutzhund competition.
WUSVWorld German Shepherd Dog Schutzhund Championship - the world Schutzhund competition where over 100 countries' teams compete each year.
ZBZuchtbewertung (Ger.) = show rating.
VAVorzüglich Auslese (Ger.) = Excellent Select - Show rating only awarded at the Sieger show in working class.
VVorzüglich (Ger.) - Excellent - Show rating awarded in working class only. Also a SchH rating awarded to dogs who score 96 points or more out of 100 in SchH trail/competition.
SGSehr Gut (Ger.) - Very Good. Is the highest possible show rating a dog can obtain in Youth Class or Young Dog Class. Also a SchH rating awarded to dogs who score 90-95 points out of 100 in SchH trail/competition.
GGut (Ger.) - Good (Show or working rating)
AAusreichend (Ger.) - Sufficient (Show or working rating)
MMangelhaft (Ger.) - Faulty (Show or working rating)
UUnsatisfactory (Show or working rating)
Puppy ClassAge groups 4-6 months, 6-9 months, and 9-12 months.
JKLJugendklasse (Ger.) = Youth Class - age group 12-18 months.
JHKLJunghundklasse (Ger.) = Young Dog Class - age group 18-24 months.
GHKLGebrauchshundklasse (Ger.) = Working Dog Class - 2 years or older, with working title (the dog must have at least a SchH1 or comparable working title in order to be shown in working class. It is not necessary to have a Kkl to show in working class).
Rüden (Ger.)Male dogs
Hündinen (Ger.)Female dogs
VPVP - Very Promising (the highest rating awarded in Puppy Classes)
PPromising (awarded in Puppy Class)
NPNot Promising (awarded in Puppy Class)
vom = von der (Ger.)From the
SchHSchutzhund (Ger.) = Protection Dog. There are 3 levels: SchH I, SchH II, SchH III. SchH equivalents are ZVV, SVV, IPO, VH, and others.
IPOInternational title, equivalent to Schutzhund. There are 3 levels: IPO I, IPO II, IPO III.
ADAusdauerprüfung (Ger.) - an endurance test performed by gaiting approximately six - ten miles per hour for about 12 miles with a ten minute rest halfway and a simple obedience test at the end. AD is a prerequisite for a Korung evaluation.
BHBegleithunde (Ger.) Prerequisite for Schutzhund. Consists of an obedience test and a traffic/temperament test.
KörungSV Breed survey. The purpose of breed survey is to select from the breeding registry a number of dogs that in their character, performance, and anatomical construction appear suitable for the conservation and improvement of the breed.
KklKörklasse - Breed Survey class (Kkl1 or Kkl2) In order to be breed-surveyed a dog must have a SchH, HGH or IPO title, must also have approved hips, pass an AD, and have a show-rating of G or better.
Kkl1Kkl1 - the dog is especially recommended for breeding
Kkl2Kkl2 - the dog is still suitable for breeding (Variations from the breed standard in conformation, such as too small or too large, a missing tooth, structural or protection work fault, etc., are issues that can cause a dog to be Kkl2 rather than Kkl1).
lbzLebenzeit (Ger.) = for life - The result of a Breed Survey (Körklasse) is for life (normally after the second Survey)
HGHHerdengebrauchshund (Ger.) = Herding Dog
PHPolizei Hund (Ger.) = Police Dog
FHFährten Hund (Ger.) = Tracking Dog - Advanced tracking title
SARSearch and rescue
TSBTriebveranlung, Selbstsicherheit und Belastbarkeit (Ger.) = drive, self-confidence, and ability to handle stress - in a courage test. Ratings are “pronounced,” “sufficient” or "insufficient."
T1, T2, T3 or T4The dog is removed from farther participation in the Sieger show due to TSB failings. Each number indicates the reason for removal.
T1Is indicating that even though the dog has demonstrated “pronounced” TSB, the dog did not release on command during the courage test. (Did not "Out").
T2TSB vorhanden (Ger.) TSB “sufficient” – not enough to continue on in the competition.
T3TSB nicht genuegend (Ger.) TSB “insufficient”
T4The dog removed from farther participation due to lack of obedience or control (the dog failed all three allowed attempts to heal to the blind).
WTWurftag (Ger.) = date of birth
ZZüchter (Ger.) = breeder
EEigentomer (Ger.) = owner
HHalter (Ger.) = holder
Führer (Ger.)Handler
Ahnentafel (Ger.)Pedigree
Kennles von LottaGerman Shepherd breeder
Vater (Ger.)Sire (Father)
Mutter (Ger.)Dam (Mother)
Thanks to http://www.vonlotta.com for this chart.


How to identify colors and markings:

b = brown
bg = brown tan
d = dark
g = tan
gew = dingy,mixed colors
ggr = tan grey sable
gr = grey
grg = greyish tan
h = light
= black
w = white

A = Marking
Br = Breast
D = Blanket
F = Muzzle
Kopfabz = Headmarking
L = Legs
M = Mask
Pf = Paws
R = Back
S = Saddle
Thanks to http://www.valkyre.com for these marking abbreviations.

If all else fails - search for your dog on www.pedigreedatabase.com they have some descriptions and abbreviations that are easier to read.

Hopefully this will help get you on your way to understanding a German Pedigree!!

Viel Glück!

Monday, July 29, 2013

Welcome!

Welcome! Konkurrenzlos Kennel of Texas is in the process of becoming a prominent breeder of German Shepherds. We currently have a male - Sandro vom Hühnegrab - who comes from a long line of German Champions! We also have 3 females with equally impressive bloodlines. We are expecting a litter of puppies soon! While we anxiously await their arrival, we are working on becoming AKC registered. The process of transferring registration from a German Kennel Club to the AKC is long, and daunting. But it is very important for us to be recognized by the AKC. We are hoping to become a source not only for beautiful German Shepherd puppies, but also a source of knowledge on the breed, and the dog breeding industry. We invite you to take this journey with us!

-Woof!