Showing posts with label how-to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how-to. Show all posts

Friday, May 8, 2015

Pet Hurricane Preparedness 2015

Pet Hurricane Preparedness 

2015

 As we begin to make preparations for the 2015 Hurricane season we must not forget about our GSD's or pets in general.  We will look at some tips, good practices and links to other helpful resources.  You may also find helpful information in our earlier blog post at : 

  http://konkurrenzloskennel.blogspot.com/2013/08/how-to-keep-your-dogs-pets-safe-during.html

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  To-Do List for Protecting Your Pets in a Disaster

Start getting ready now

I - ID your pet >>

  • Make sure that your cat or dog is wearing a collar and identification that is up to date and visible at all times. You'll increase your chances of being reunited with a lost pet by having him or her microchipped.If your pet is adopted from a shelter or rescue organization, make sure the registration has been transferred to you and is not still with the adoption group.
  • Put your cell phone number on your pet's tag. It may also be a good idea to include the phone number of a friend or relative outside your immediate area—in case you have had to evacuate.

II - Put together your disaster kit >>

 The Basic disaster should include, but not limited to:


Other useful items include:

  • CONTRA FLOW EVACUATION ROUTE MAPS

III - Find a safe place to stay ahead of time >>

Some communities have groups that have solely focused on providing emergency sheltering for pets, and other communities simply don’t have the resources. That's why you should never assume that you will be allowed to bring your pet to an emergency shelter.

Before disaster hits call your local office of emergency management to see if you will be allowed to evacuate with your pets and that there will be shelters that take people and their pets in your area. And just to be safe, track down a pet-friendly safe place for your family and pets.

 Find a pet-friendly hotel or motel:
  • Contact hotels and motels outside your immediate area to find out if they accept pets. Ask about any restrictions on number, size, and species. Inquire if the "no pet" policies would be waived in an emergency. Keep a list of animal-friendly places handy, and call ahead for a reservation as soon as you think you might have to leave your home.  The following are some online resources for pet-friendly hotels:  
 
  • Make arrangements with friends or relatives. Ask people outside the immediate area if they would be able to shelter you and your pets—or just your pets—if necessary. If you have more than one pet, you may need to arrange to house them at separate locations.
  • Consider a kennel or veterinarian's office. Make a list of boarding facilities and veterinary offices that might be able to shelter animals in disaster emergencies (include their 24-hour telephone numbers).
  • As a last resort, ask your local animal shelter.  Some shelters may be able to provide foster care or shelter for pets in an emergency. But shelters have limited resources and are likely to be stretched to their limits during an emergency.

Plan for your pet in case you're not home

A disaster or evacuation order may come when you're out of the house.
  • Make arrangements well in advance for a trusted neighbor or nearby friend or family member to take your pets and meet you at a specified location. Be sure the person is comfortable with your pets and your pets are familiar with him or her. Give your emergency caretaker a key to your home and show her or him where your pets are likely to be (or hide) and where your disaster supplies are kept.
  • If you use a pet-sitting service, it may be able to help, but discuss the possibility well in advance.

III - If you evacuate, take your pet >>

  1. Rule number one: If it isn't safe for you, it isn't safe for your pets. Even if you think you will only be gone for a few hours, take your pets. You have no way of knowing how long you'll be kept out of the area, and you may not be able—or allowed—to go back for your pets.  Pets left behind in a disaster can easily be injured, lost, or killed. Those left inside your home can escape through storm-damaged areas, such as broken windows. And pets turned loose to fend for themselves are likely to become victims of exposure, starvation, predators, contaminated food or water, or accidents. Leaving dogs tied or chained outside in a disaster is a death sentence.
  2. Rule number two: Evacuate early. Don't wait for a mandatory evacuation order. Some people who have waited to be evacuated by emergency officials have been told to leave their pets behind.The smell of smoke, high winds or lightening may make your pet more fearful and   difficult to load into a crate or carrier. Evacuating before conditions become severe will keep everyone safer and make the process less stressful.

IV - If you stay home, do it safely >>

If your family and pets must wait out a storm or other disaster at home, identify a safe area of your home where you can all stay together. Make that safe area animal friendly:
  • Close off or eliminate unsafe nooks and crannies where frightened cats may try to hide.
  • Move dangerous items such as tools or toxic products that have been stored in the area.
Be sure to close your windows and doors, stay inside, and follow the instructions from your local emergency management office.
  • Bring your pets indoors as soon as local authorities say trouble is on the way. Keep pets under your direct control; if you have to evacuate, you will not have to spend time trying to find them. Keep dogs on leashes and cats in carriers, and make sure they are wearing identification.
  • If you have a room you can designate as a "safe room," put your emergency supplies in that room in advance, including your pet's crate and supplies. Have any medications and a supply of pet food and water inside watertight containers, along with your other emergency supplies. If there is an open fireplace, vent, pet door, or similar opening in the house, close it off with plastic sheeting and strong tape.
  • Listen to the radio periodically, and don't come out until you know it's safe.
STAY SAFE AND INFORMED

You can find further information on general hurricane preparedness at : 


 This handy brochure can be downloaded at:
http://www.ready.gov/sites/default/files/documents/files/pets_brochure.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

 Thank You to the following site for source information: 
 http://www.humanesociety.org
 

 

 

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

How to keep your dogs (pets) safe during HURRICANE season - Pt. I

Hurricane Preparedness

Pt. I 


We are located in Houston, which has been known to be affected by a hurricane now and again. Many of our readers, friends, and puppy purchasers live in other areas that can experience a hurricane. Part of being a responsible pet owner - is having a safety plan that INCLUDES your pet. We have taken some tips from the Hurricane Pet Rescue Organization.



HURRICANE TIPS FOR KEEPING YOUR PETS SAFE!

1) If you need to evacuate, PLEASE TAKE YOUR ANIMALS WITH YOU! HAVE A PLAN, MEMORIZE IT AND STICK TO IT. DO A SIMULATED EMERGENCY DRILL WITH YOUR FAMILY AND PETS. PICK A LEADER, FOLLOW THE LEADER AND DO NOT ARGUE WITH THE LEADER. KNOW SEVERAL PLACES OF EXIT. DO NOT ENCLOSE YOURSELF AND YOUR PETS TO THE POINT THAT YOU CANNOT GET OUT.

2) In the event that you cannot take the animal where you are going, please make arrangements to board your animal in a safe and reputable boarding facility or vet office INLAND.

3) If you are going to a shelter with your animal please make sure you call your veterinarian beforehand so you can get a copy of your pets vet records and proof of vaccinations. Most shelters will NOT take your pet, if the pet doesn't have at least a rabies shot. Also, at shelters that accept pets, they are many other pets besides yours, so it is IMPERATIVE that your pet(s) is up to date on shots,
This way she// he will be protected from diseases.

Don't wait until the last minute to give your pets their vaccinations as vaccinations can take up to 2 weeks to take up to 2 weeks to be effective.

4) If you are packing for you, please park for your pets as well, you don't need to take the cat tree or the dog house, but please pack a few familiar things for your pet(s) that has the smell of his house. Especially if you go to a shelter. Taking a few toys to entertain the pet is a must, perhaps a familiar blanket will be good too. Rescue Remedy to relieve stress will be a good idea to have in hand.

You can pick up Rescue Remedy at any health food store, is a natural stress reliever with no side effects, it can be used as needed and it works great (DO NOT get the Rescue Remedy pills, those can be toxic)

Besides a carrier you are going to need a cage/crate so your pet can be more comfortable while at the shelter. Make sure the crate/cage is big enough where the pet can comfortably stand and litter box (for cats), food and water dishes can also fit in. It will be a good idea checking out crates and cages now and not to leave it for the last minute.

5) Getting your pets microchipped is highly advisable, but if the pet is not microchipped yet please put ID TAGS on your pets NOW. Although ID tags are not always the best as collars break and there go the ID tags. Even if your pet is microchipped having ID tags on your pets as well is always a good idea.

ID tags and microchips can prevent your animals from getting killed in case they ever get lost and end up in a shelter! Or in case of a Mother Nature Disaster if they get lost, finding their owner will be somewhat better.

If your pet is a cat please use a breakaway collar.

6) If your pet takes medications please make sure you have enough to get you through the storm and at least a 3 week supply for the aftermath.If you haven't yet, this will be a good time to ask your vet for extra medications, antibiotics are always good to have them handy in case your pet gets sick.
In case of a storm if you lose power there will be no refrigeration, so pills are always best.

7) Buy at least food and water supply for your pet to last you for at least 2 weeks. Bottled water is best as tap water may be contaminated after a storm (listen to authorities for warning of contaminated water).
Contaminated water causes disease in people as well as pets. If you cannot afford bottle water for your pets then you can purified the water by following these simple steps:
Hold water at a rolling boil for 1 minute to kill bacteria.
If you can't boil water, add 1/8 teaspoon (approximately 0.75 ml) of newly purchased, unscented liquid household bleach per gallon of water.
Stir the water well, and let it stand for 30 minutes before you use it. You can use water-purifying tablets instead of boiling water or using bleach.

After the storm, disinfect your pet’s toys that have come in contact with water. Use a solution of 1 cup of bleach in 5 gallons of water to disinfect the toys. Let toys air dry after cleaning.

Some toys, such as stuffed animals and cannot be disinfected; they should be discarded.

8) If you are riding out the storm at your home. Place all your animals in one room (if possible) and place carriers. collars & leashes in the same room so you will have them handy when you need them.
If things do get ugly, DO NOT PANIC, Stay as calm as you can be. If you panic your animals will panic too. Remember that pets can sense human emotions!

Please have rope and an ax (in case you need to break an opening to get to safety), a flashlight, a SMALL bag with medications, your id and your keys all in one place, so if you need to get out and lose power you will know where everything is.

Remember, Pets sense Mother Nature disasters days before any radar can pick them up, so they may be a bit stress already without anybody noticing.  Keeping calm is key!

9) If you have no choice but to leave your pets alone (NOT ADVISABLE).

DO NOT CHAIN YOUR PET TO ANYTHING.

DO NOT TRANQUILIZE YOUR PET, PETS NEED TO BE ALERT TO RELAY ON THEIR 
INSTINCTS.

DO NOT CONFINE YOU PETS TO A ROOM.

DO NOT CONFINE YOUR PETS TO A CRATE.

PLAN FOR YOUR PET

GIVE THEM EASY ACCESS TO HIGH PLACES, IN CASE OF FLOODING.

Leave plenty of dry food and water and put a dish of water under the dish of dry food so ants will not get in the food. Put as many litter boxes as you can all over your house, Wee Wee pads for dogs or newspaper. If you have an answering machine DO call your animals and let them hear your voice while you are away.

Do NOT leave lamps on, if you want to leave a light on for your pet, please leave a ceiling fixture on.
If things get bad, lamps can tip over, if the area is flooded your pets can be electrocuted, same scenario with fans DO NOT leave any fans on. Unplug all appliances, yes including your refrigerator, if you have a gas stove, please shut off the main line.

Do not leave wet food for you pets because it will spoil and your pet will get sick.

If you board up your house, please leave an exit for your pets, perhaps a screened cracked window chances are that your house has insurance, so if your roof blows away you are covered but your pets won't be.

If there is a flood and the water rises up to your roof (like it did with Katrina), having an open window or 2 it will give your pet a chance to break free.

10) Good luck and be safe with your 4 legged little ones.

Source information:
Celene Albano, HPR Rescue CEO

www.hurricanepetsrescue.org

www.hurricanepets.petfinder.com

E-mail: HPRESQ@aol.com

tel: 786-999-8239

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

German Pedigree

Have you ever seen a German Pedigree? Have you ever tried to read ANYTHING in German?! Well - it is not an easy task. Since our dogs come directly from Germany - they have Official FCI German Pedigrees. It took many hours with Google Translator and different "Champion title charts" and "German abbreviations" to figure out HOW to read a pedigree.

I wanted to assemble a "cheat" sheet for anyone else facing this task.All sources are given.  am not an expert, just offering some advice!

The pedigree should be 3 pages in length. Your dog's information will be listed on the first page, with 4 generations of family history on the next 2 pages.

The first column listed under the heading Eltern or Parents. First will be the Father or Vatter - sometimes listed as 1V. Then below that will be the Mother or Mutter - listed as 2M.

The second column, großeltern or Grandparents will feature the Vatters and Mutters parents.

On the last page will be the urgroßeltern or Great-Grandparents, and the ururgroßeltern or Great-Great Grandparents, respectively.

There will also be a list of abbreviations. Here is a list that more clearly identifies abbreviations found on a pedigree:

GSDGerman Shepherd Dog = Deutsche Schäferhunde (Ger.)
SVVerein für Deutsche Schäferhunde e. V. (Ger.) - Club for German Sepherd Dogs Inc - the main (original) GSD club and breed registry, based in Germany.
WUSVThe World Union of German Shepherd Dog Clubs
AWDFAmerican Working Dog Federation - an organization founded in 1989 to strengthen the working breeds in the United States. The breeds represented include German Shepherd Dogs, Malinois, Boxers, American Bulldogs, Dobermans, Rottweilers, Bouviers, Schnauzers, and American Staffordshire Terriers.
USA = USCAUnited Schutzhund Clubs of America. USA is dedicated to protecting & preserving the German Shepherd Dog's working heritage through Schutzhund training. www.germanshepherddog.com
GSDCA-WDAThe German Shepherd Dog Club of America -Working Dog Association, Inc. The WDA provides enthusiasts a framework for activities in the United States patterned after those available to the worldwide GSD community. www.gsdca-wda.org
DVGDeutscher Verband der Gebrauchshundsportvereine (Ger.) DVG is the oldest and largest Schutzhund training organization in the world. Begun in 1903, DVG was Germany's first police and service dog club and has now grown to nearly 30,000 members.
FCIFederation Cynologique Internationale (Fr.) - world canine organization
AKCAmerican Kennel Club. www.akc.org
CKCCanadian Kennel Club
HDHip Dysplasia
“a” 1HD normal - the best hip rating possible from the SV
“a” 2HD fast normal - near normal hips
“a” 3HD noch zugelassen - hips are still acceptable for breeding
"a"-AuslandHD certification was passed in another country rather than Germany.
OFAOrthopedic Foundation for Animals - an organization in the US that researches HD and other health problems and certifies hips and elbows for animals.
ZWZuchtwert (Ger.) An estimated Breed Value. Is used to aid breeders in making the selection of breeding partners for their dogs according to their hip status. A breed value of 100 is typical for the breed. Each breeder should strive to produce offspring with a Breed Value LESS than 100.
BSZSBundessieger-Zuchtschau (Ger.) World Championship - a yearly international championship of the German Shepherd Dog held in Germany (Sieger Show).
BSPBundessiegerprufung (Ger.) German National Working German Shepherd Dog Championship - a yearly Schutzhund competition.
WUSVWorld German Shepherd Dog Schutzhund Championship - the world Schutzhund competition where over 100 countries' teams compete each year.
ZBZuchtbewertung (Ger.) = show rating.
VAVorzüglich Auslese (Ger.) = Excellent Select - Show rating only awarded at the Sieger show in working class.
VVorzüglich (Ger.) - Excellent - Show rating awarded in working class only. Also a SchH rating awarded to dogs who score 96 points or more out of 100 in SchH trail/competition.
SGSehr Gut (Ger.) - Very Good. Is the highest possible show rating a dog can obtain in Youth Class or Young Dog Class. Also a SchH rating awarded to dogs who score 90-95 points out of 100 in SchH trail/competition.
GGut (Ger.) - Good (Show or working rating)
AAusreichend (Ger.) - Sufficient (Show or working rating)
MMangelhaft (Ger.) - Faulty (Show or working rating)
UUnsatisfactory (Show or working rating)
Puppy ClassAge groups 4-6 months, 6-9 months, and 9-12 months.
JKLJugendklasse (Ger.) = Youth Class - age group 12-18 months.
JHKLJunghundklasse (Ger.) = Young Dog Class - age group 18-24 months.
GHKLGebrauchshundklasse (Ger.) = Working Dog Class - 2 years or older, with working title (the dog must have at least a SchH1 or comparable working title in order to be shown in working class. It is not necessary to have a Kkl to show in working class).
Rüden (Ger.)Male dogs
Hündinen (Ger.)Female dogs
VPVP - Very Promising (the highest rating awarded in Puppy Classes)
PPromising (awarded in Puppy Class)
NPNot Promising (awarded in Puppy Class)
vom = von der (Ger.)From the
SchHSchutzhund (Ger.) = Protection Dog. There are 3 levels: SchH I, SchH II, SchH III. SchH equivalents are ZVV, SVV, IPO, VH, and others.
IPOInternational title, equivalent to Schutzhund. There are 3 levels: IPO I, IPO II, IPO III.
ADAusdauerprüfung (Ger.) - an endurance test performed by gaiting approximately six - ten miles per hour for about 12 miles with a ten minute rest halfway and a simple obedience test at the end. AD is a prerequisite for a Korung evaluation.
BHBegleithunde (Ger.) Prerequisite for Schutzhund. Consists of an obedience test and a traffic/temperament test.
KörungSV Breed survey. The purpose of breed survey is to select from the breeding registry a number of dogs that in their character, performance, and anatomical construction appear suitable for the conservation and improvement of the breed.
KklKörklasse - Breed Survey class (Kkl1 or Kkl2) In order to be breed-surveyed a dog must have a SchH, HGH or IPO title, must also have approved hips, pass an AD, and have a show-rating of G or better.
Kkl1Kkl1 - the dog is especially recommended for breeding
Kkl2Kkl2 - the dog is still suitable for breeding (Variations from the breed standard in conformation, such as too small or too large, a missing tooth, structural or protection work fault, etc., are issues that can cause a dog to be Kkl2 rather than Kkl1).
lbzLebenzeit (Ger.) = for life - The result of a Breed Survey (Körklasse) is for life (normally after the second Survey)
HGHHerdengebrauchshund (Ger.) = Herding Dog
PHPolizei Hund (Ger.) = Police Dog
FHFährten Hund (Ger.) = Tracking Dog - Advanced tracking title
SARSearch and rescue
TSBTriebveranlung, Selbstsicherheit und Belastbarkeit (Ger.) = drive, self-confidence, and ability to handle stress - in a courage test. Ratings are “pronounced,” “sufficient” or "insufficient."
T1, T2, T3 or T4The dog is removed from farther participation in the Sieger show due to TSB failings. Each number indicates the reason for removal.
T1Is indicating that even though the dog has demonstrated “pronounced” TSB, the dog did not release on command during the courage test. (Did not "Out").
T2TSB vorhanden (Ger.) TSB “sufficient” – not enough to continue on in the competition.
T3TSB nicht genuegend (Ger.) TSB “insufficient”
T4The dog removed from farther participation due to lack of obedience or control (the dog failed all three allowed attempts to heal to the blind).
WTWurftag (Ger.) = date of birth
ZZüchter (Ger.) = breeder
EEigentomer (Ger.) = owner
HHalter (Ger.) = holder
Führer (Ger.)Handler
Ahnentafel (Ger.)Pedigree
Kennles von LottaGerman Shepherd breeder
Vater (Ger.)Sire (Father)
Mutter (Ger.)Dam (Mother)
Thanks to http://www.vonlotta.com for this chart.


How to identify colors and markings:

b = brown
bg = brown tan
d = dark
g = tan
gew = dingy,mixed colors
ggr = tan grey sable
gr = grey
grg = greyish tan
h = light
= black
w = white

A = Marking
Br = Breast
D = Blanket
F = Muzzle
Kopfabz = Headmarking
L = Legs
M = Mask
Pf = Paws
R = Back
S = Saddle
Thanks to http://www.valkyre.com for these marking abbreviations.

If all else fails - search for your dog on www.pedigreedatabase.com they have some descriptions and abbreviations that are easier to read.

Hopefully this will help get you on your way to understanding a German Pedigree!!

Viel Glück!